By clothing-bag, 25/05/2022
Vitamin C IN the skin _ Meritxell's blog
We all know more or less what vitamin C is and what foods contain it.
Although we know the function it fulfills when we take it orally, we are not so clear about how it works when we apply it externally to the skin.
Although we have been told that it leaves the skin very luminous and is very effective.
WHAT IS VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C is a chemical form of ascorbic acid.
Like the rest of the vitamins, it is essential for life and is part of most metabolic processes in the body.
It is a water-soluble vitamin, with great antioxidant action.
Generally, the body contains vitamin C (liver, pituitary, adrenal glands, leukocytes...) and a sufficient amount of vitamin C is ingested with daily food.
Although on some occasions it can be reduced and then we need a supplement of it.
Vitamin C is very labile and oxidizes very easily both when cooking due to temperature, air and sunlight.
So although a healthy diet provides us with vitamin C, although to ensure an active absorption of Vitamin C, the ideal is to take an oral supplement of it.
SOME FUNCTIONS OF VITAMIN C IN THE ORGANISM
Vitamin C has many functions in the body, although I am going to summarize some that seem most interesting to me within the subject I want to address.
Helps iron absorption in the stomach.
It acts as an essential cofactor in the synthesis of collagen, making it essential in the maintenance of connective tissues and bones.
It is given defense actions against diseases such as cataracts, degenerative pathologies in general and, of course, skin aging. In skin aging, the lack of vitamin C is highly involved in the reduction of collagen production.
Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis, by improving the activity of the phosphatase enzyme (formation of osteoblasts), in the transformation of proline into hydroxyproline, by improving the function of proline hydroxylase, (the mediating enzyme of this metabolic cycle) this process is basic in the formation of collagen.
This improves skin elasticity, improves dermal micro-circulation and the resistance of capillaries.
Antioxidant action and neutralization of free radicals:
Decreases lipid peroxidation (LDL or low-density lipids responsible for arteriosclerosis).
Decreases oxidative damage to DNA and oxidative damage to proteins.
Very linked in the metabolism of cholesterol by bile acids.
Prevention of carcinoma formation:
It has an important role in the formation of carcinogens in the gastrointestinal tract.
Prevents the formation of skin tumors due to the damage caused by UVA-UVB rays to cellular DNA.
At the energy and neurotransmitter level:
It is involved in enzymatic reactions for the production of neurotransmitters, such as serotonin and norepinephrine.
Essential in the synthesis of carnitine, essential element in the transport of fatty elements to the mitochondria to improve energy intake.
WHAT CAN CAUSE US TO NEED MORE VITAMIN C?
Some situations can cause us to need a greater intake of vitamin C. Such as stress, during growth, pregnancy and lactation.
People who are exposed to colds, this vitamin will protect against them.
Some drugs that, due to their composition, require more input such as oral contraceptives, antibiotics or cortisone.
Atmospheric pollutants, people exposed to smoke or other environmental pollutants.
Alcohol, alcoholics need a greater intake of vitamin C because they have a greater amount of free radicals.
Tobacco, (one cigarette destroys 25 to 100 mg of vitamin C), which causes the oxidation of the organism, which is why smokers make an oral supplement practically essential.
VITAMIN C ORAL NEEDS
Vitamin C is generally ingested with a balanced diet, although as I mentioned before, this vitamin is very labile, which means that a large part of it is lost in storage, cooking …
In general, a natural orange juice provides 15 to 35 mg of vitamin C.
Although each country establishes minimum amounts, the daily recommendations are from 45 mg/day to 95 mg/day in the USA.
The recommended maximums are up to 2000 mg/day, although an excess of vitamin C will be eliminated in the urine as it is a water-soluble vitamin, so it is not a problem nor does it present toxicity, although an excess of it can cause certain states of nervousness.
HOW IT WORKS ON THE SKIN
Throughout history the anti-aging action of vitamin C on the skin has been known.
Already in Tibet in the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD) women already rubbed their skin with the orange berries of sea buckthorn and goji berries.
Rosehip petals contain 20 times more vitamin C than an orange, which is why these plants are so rejuvenating, and which is why rose-based creams have been so popular and effective since history , which has been used to this day.
Sailors in the past also knew that vitamin C stimulated healing in the skin.
By being part of the synthesis of collagen, vitamin C helps prevent skin aging and limits the damage caused by free radicals.
Collagen is the protein that gives firmness to the skin and stimulates the youth of the skin.
The amount of collagen in the skin declines with age, and other factors such as sunlight, smoking, free radicals, among others.
Topical vitamin C is one of the most effective methods in the synthesis of collagen.
Although oral vitamin C is very important for overall health, it is not as effective in maintaining the natural beauty of the skin as topical vitamin C can be.
We know that topical antioxidants can be easily absorbed through the skin, although once applied they must remain on the skin and not be washed off.
Applying topical vitamin C is 20 times more potent on the skin than taking it orally since, being water soluble, the excess is excreted in the urine.
Vitamin C is highly antioxidant due to its great capacity to capture free radicals.
The effectiveness is such that studies show that it works to reduce wrinkles, skin tone and firmness, especially in photo-aged skin.
It is also very effective in acne-prone skin, by preventing and reducing acne lesions.
Some cosmetics that contain vitamin C are enhanced by alpha hydroxy acids.
WHAT TYPE OF VITAMIN C SHOULD WE USE, BECAUSE THEY ARE SO DIFFERENT IN PRICE
As we already know, vitamin C is water-soluble and highly labile. It oxidizes easily when it comes into contact with air.
Although vitamin C is one of the really effective components for wrinkles and fine lines, the lack of stability makes this a problem.
When the cream with vitamin C changes colors it has oxidized, and oxidized vitamin C contains a large amount of free radicals so it is not convenient.
That is why other forms of vitamin C are used.
Depending on which one is used in the cosmetic, there is a significant price variation.
It is the most basic form of vitamin C, it is citric acid, so it is a prohibited form for the most sensitive skin due to its acidity. for exfoliations.
VITAMIN C ASCORBYL PALMITATE
It is the most common form in creams, it is the fat-soluble form of vitamin C.
Also known as Vitamin C ester.
It is non-irritating and highly stable.
It also helps protect the skin from lipid peroxidation.
Although the ability to stimulate collagen production is not as high as ascorbic acid.
VITAMIN C MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PALMITATE
This is water soluble and now there are more products that use this form. It is non-irritating and more stable than vitamin C.
It seems to have the same power in stimulating the formation of collagen, and it is effective, although for it to be effective it must have a minimum concentration and it is difficult to find cosmetics with a high concentration in this way.
This form is ideal for people with sensitive skin who want the stimulating effect of collagen production but without its acidic effect and therefore not exfoliating, ideal for sensitive and delicate skin.
LIPOPHILIC TETRA-SUBSTITUTES ASCORBATES OF VITAMIN C
This is the new generation of vitamin C derivatives, it is a mixture of a fragment of ascorbic acid (ascorbyl) and another fragment of another acid form (palmitate or phosphate).
Also called tetrahexidecyl ascorbate.
This form with several parts of the acid form seems to be the most effective compared to vitamin C and the older ones.
As well as very stable.
They are also very effective in stimulating collagen synthesis.
Though it's still hard to find products with these forms of vitamin C.
HOW CAN WE USE VITAMIN C?
There are many cosmetic ways to apply vitamin C.
The most common is in the form of "serum" or drops, I recommend it above all to apply at night.
With this we achieve a nocturnal repair of the skin.
Using this serum, you can use a moisturizing cream with sunscreen during the day.
For greater efficacy or more shock treatment, use a cream with vitamin C.
Vitamin C cream, these creams used during the day give luminosity to the skin, although it is necessary to apply a sunscreen if this vitamin C is in acid form, since when it oxidizes in contact with the sun it can give rise to spots on the skin.
Masks, these masks are very useful to use once a week, especially in smokers who have a dull skin tone, the acid form is very effective since at the same time they have a peeling effect.
Flash-type ampoules, these ampoules with immediate effect, are ideal to use in an urgent repairing way, when you feel really tired, when you have gone out to a party and we are suffering from the effects of excessive alcohol or smoky environments of cigarette.
They can also be used before a party or makeup, to give the skin more naturalness.
Tonics and Cleansers, toners and cleansers are effective as a complement to other treatments and due to their acidic effect, since they help to improve the natural renewal of the skin by having an exfoliating effect.
COMBINATIONS OF VITAMIN C AND OTHER FLAVONOIDS
Products that contain some non-oxidizing form of vitamin C together with other active ingredients are very effective.
Green tea is a component that also provides flavonoids that stimulate the effectiveness of vitamin C.
Some creams also incorporate phytic acid.
Glycolic acids or other types of alpha hydroxy acids.
Vitamin E that acts synergistically in the action of free radical scavenger.
Grape seed extract or resverastrol
When we are going to buy a product with vitamin C, it is better to ask for advice, since a professional will tell you which one is best for you according to your skin type and the expectations you have look for the same
My specific favorite brands with vitamin C:
Mene&Moy, line of origin USA, where you can find all forms of vitamin C and different concentrations depending on the use.
They mainly use the lipid form of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate.
The only problem is that it is not easy to find and the price is not entirely cheap.
Medik8, this line of UK origin, has one of its leading products, the high-concentration vitamin C serum, it has two high-concentration products and the newest form of vitamin C, the lipophilic tetrasubstitutes, such as tetrahexydecyl ascorbate.
Flavo C, from Belgium, this is one of the pioneering brands and with the widest range of vitamin C-based cosmetics, perhaps the cheapest brand of all of them compared to the price, this line has a patented form of the acid form of L-ascorbic. A great plus of this brand are the serums that include Ginko biloba, and their high concentrations.
Segle Clinical Dermoestetica, made in Spain, has a serum with a composition very similar to Flavo C.
Sesderma, made in Spain, also has a serum where vitamin C is in the form of ascorbyl glucoside liposomes, which at the same time is depigmenting, as well as hyaluronic acid liposomes to improve hydration at the same time.